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merida kirtle  burgundian-placket. I don't see where this is really period. What I have seen has the GFD underneath.

The Esaïkha Creation Workshop: XV: Dress Tassel - Part Project presentation and study of "tassel"

Layout for a kirtle by http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/frontlaced-kirtles1.html

No-waist seam frontlaced kirtles, with mention of a unique lining method.

The Moy Gown.This garment, presumed to be a woman’s, was discovered in a bog in Moy, County Clare, Ireland in 1931.

Julie Adama posted Irish "Moy Gown" Diagram to her -womens apparel- postboard via the Juxtapost bookmarklet.

Hugo Van Der Goes Flemish Kirtle

Triptych of Willem Moreel, right wing, the founder Barbara van Vlaenderbergh, wife of Willem Moreel, the daughters and the St. Barbara A very delicate belt with a fabric strap.

Detail from 'Descent from the Cross', Rogier van der Weyden, c. 1435-1440, Flemish (Museo del Prado, Madrid). Note the cut of the pinned on sleeve tapering to the wrist, & the pop of rich fabric and color. Can't tell if it's brocade or velvet...

Rogier van der Weyden, Detail from The Descent from the Cross. Brocade pinned sleeve, laced bodice, peekaboo chemise, detail on edge of veil