1890 -This is the first known photograph ever taken of a surfer. Surfing was banned in Hawaii by missionaries in the for its “ungodliness,” but fortunately the natives didn’t pay much heed to that decree.Just look at Diamond-head pre-tourism
Mickey Dora personified the rebel-surfer; inspiring a generation to defy convention and take off on that wave. But he was also a mystery and a tangle of contradictions. At the height of his influence, he disappeared. Did he know something about the future? Or was he on the run from his past ? Follow one man's search for the legendary Mickey Dora; what happens when a lost idol doesn't want to be found?